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The forgotten woman who made fashion



The article “Batallón de modistillas” by journalist Leticia García confirms the validity of the personality of creators silenced by industry in the twentieth century

despite of 80% of fashion school students are women, while only 16% run brands. And up to 40% of them make up the design team of large companies, only 14% lead them. article The Tailor’s Battalion: The Forgotten Women Who Make FashionWritten by a journalist Leticia Garcia Edited by Carpe Noctem Publishing House, not only highlights Masculinity and class prevailing in the industry Which reduced the value of women’s work, especially in the last century. Likewise, it captures the stories of those who have been ignored by the official history.

This is the case Elizabeth Howes: The first American to model in Paris in 1931. “I hated both the fashion dynamics and the complex last-name clients. Before long Pierre Cardin The Authors Industry Group was launched in 1959, which marked the beginning of what we know ready to wearShe wanted to create clothes that were cheap and accessible to everyone. This democratic perspective, as well as its feminist ideals and Advocating for better working conditions in the workshops, irritated a lot of people, Garcia points out. Like other misunderstood talents, she died in Chelsea Hotel From New York in 1971.

Ann Lowe He also lived in his body the greatest ostracism. In 1950, at the height of corsiderite new look Christian Dior shop on Lexington Street, one of Manhattan’s richest streets. He was dressed like a Hollywood star Olivia de Havilland yes , In 1953, she created the iconic wedding dress that Jacqueline Bouvier transformed into Jackie Kennedy. However, by the mere fact of being African American, her clients refused to pay her the same white designer. In 1963, she went bankrupt, had to close the store.

He signed his posters with the Jewish name Sonia Rosenberg. And for decades, no one mentioned it in the photo captions for what was the most influential link in the early 1950s, he asserts. “None of that mattered. He didn’t do it for fame or money. He simply wanted to see how far he could go. Or rather, how far they would let her go.”

As for the book, whose title justifies the popular character of Spanish seamstresses who Alvaro de Ritana empowered him, with a combative key, in one of his most famous double stanzas, Many proper names such as those of . are displayed Rose Jenoni – the fan Made in italy– also Thea Porter – style inventor boho chic This, in the 1960s, urged customers to turn their clothes into curtains or pillows when not in use. Similarly, in these pages there is space for Barcelona Asuncion Bastida or Carmen Meyer: Two Successful Designers and Entrepreneur In the words of Garcia, “When they die, unlike Balenciaga or Pertegaz, they do not appear in the books”.

So far this century, like giants Chanel, Dior or Alexander McQueen named Virginie Viard, Maria Grazia Chiuri or Sarah Burton, respectively, as their creative directors. Is there a new model? “Luxury brands don’t hire them because they’re suddenly feminists. They’re doing it because they are now It is women who buy and live not exclusively on perfumes or accessories as they did twenty years ago, but on clothes. Chanel or Dior shows, given that they are in charge, may not be as spectacular as those of Karl Lagerfeld or John Galliano. however, It is undeniable that clothes designed by women are different from clothes made by men: everything is lighter and more comfortable Because, apart from the larger size, it has zippers and pockets & rdquor; As the author says.

And he adds, “Yes, I am optimistic about the future. Now, we must not forget that there are still very few who guide and are behind the strategy. Fashion is able to silence certain topics when it wants to. For example, it took him many years to confront anorexia or racism. But, in the end, we are talking about this “.

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